“Get some Scotch Blue” they say. “Scotch Blue is the best for getting PLA to stick to the printer bed” they say…
Sadly I don’t live in the greatest country in the world so there is no Scotch Blue in my local hardware store. But there is Tesa. And Tesa wouldn’t be Tesa if they wouldn’t offer adhesive tape.
So ‘blue’ I thought over and over again as I wandered the endless shelfs of the men’s boutique also known as ‘local hardware store’ which is just like what a shoe store is for women. And I found what I wanted to find. Blue painters tape. Made by Tesa. Named ‘Precision Outdoor‘. Precision = perfect. Outdoor = even more perfect. So I can finally print in the woods. Enough of the pun. No Pun intended.
The tape is 6.50€ for 25m. That’s ‘OK’.
So I applied that stuff to the printer bed, finished my first print and hell….this stuff is good. The PLA stuck to the tape like the devil to the poor soul. It nearly felt like the whole thing was CA-glued to the bed. Maybe a bit too much but I don’t have to heat up my printer bed which also reduces overall printing time.
Sticks to PLA like the devil to the soul.
Okay this might not support 3kg spools. Not even 1kg spools but it is perfect if you still don’t have a spool holder but want to print one.
Some left over copper wires and a office clamp are enough for 10-12 meters of filament.
MacGyver Filament Holder
The extruder freshly calibrated but anyways I am getting underextrusion, or at least it looks to me so, on the following layers after the first layer.
This is a picture of my first layer. Wonderful.
The second layer (Shells = 2) is fine with some error but then the 3rd and following layers are totally messed up.
Why this happens, I don’t know. The bed is leveled, the extruder is calibrated and the filament is fed without force.
Hello dear reader
on a constant basis I want to write about the issues and design imperfections of my QU-BD TwoUp 3d printer. There are a lot of issues which I try to fix and posts the findings and results here.
So off we go with an issue that from the first look does not look that of a problem.
The heat bed
The heated bed is a piece basalt with a heat pad glued to the bottom. The heat bed itself resides on a cut-to-fit MDF piece with 5.6xxxx mm thickness. Damn those non-metric measurement.
1) Under the weight of the basalt bed the MDF piece deflects.
Solution: Replace MDF with aluminium or strong acrylic glass piece.
2) Heat pad is glued not aligned to the basalt bed. The cut-out middle section in the MDF therefore distorts the whole basalt bed. The holes in the MDF piece which are used to secure the basalt bed are off. Way off. Being slightly twisted, the heated bed is not aligned nice with the Y and X axis hence reducing the print volume slightly.
Misaligned heat bed
Heat pad misaligned
Solution: Remove heat pad and realign it.
Solution 2: Sand of parts of the MDF so that the heat pad/heat bed can be aligned with the x/y axis.