I constantly get a jammed extruder. On longer prints more likely than on shorter prints. Short means the 20mmBox.stl from the Essential Calibration Set on Thingiverse.
When it comes to printing the Y-drive replacement made by MacAttak for the TwoUp it jams.
Clogged TwoUp stock extruder
I took the fan that normaly cools the filament and the extruder nozzle and mounted (glued) it on top of the extruder motor. CA glue and zip ties seems to be THE weapon of choice when it comes to TwoUp
customer design adjustments enhancements.
As Nathan from QU-BD said ‘Note, the printer will work as supplied. However, making some changes here will make it better. ‘ (link)
So true. So true.
The printrboard potis are default set to 50%. This is quite a bit for those little steppers and the result is that they heat up pretty much. Above all the extruder stepper is heating up to the point were the heat is transfered over it’s axis and the brass bolt to the filament. If you are using PLA filament which gets soft at 100°C this means that it is very likly that the filemant winds up just before it entered the extruder leaving you with the mess of cleaning up the extruder and remove the excess plastic.
So setting the extruder stepper to 300mV should just help in keeping the motors temperature low and the filament flowing.
Because ….the Filament must flow….
Finally I got the PLA stick to my heated bed (50°C) with the use of Elkos Hairspray for 0,90€.
After the first layer my prints went off on the x axis. See picture below. My filament hangs just there as it is a 5m long piece I cut off the big spool. After holding the filament on level with the printer the print went ok again. I think this is due to the force the hanging filament put on the extruder.
3d print without filament holder
It seemed that this was not the problem for the misalignment of the layers. The original y-drive is a very fragile design. It easily loosens and this is very likely the problem. I kind of fixed it with popsicle sticks and CA glue. CA glue on screws….nuf said.
Two Up y drive fix
While putting together my Two Up 3D printer I did not want to glue the x-axis belt to the extruder head so it could be removed easily later on. I used two small zip ties to connect the extruder head to the belt.
So after printing my first pink “cube” I discovered the 0.5mm-thin-wall.stl.
This are basically just 4 walls with a layer thickness depending on your settings. It is named 0.5 mm b/c of the printer it was designed for but this can be used on every other printer.
So I made three prints on my QB-UP TwoUp and discovered the ‘layer trick’. You can see from left to right that there are some ugly gap-thing on the layer. By increasing the layer height by 0.01 mm you get rid of these and there comes in the “right layer height” post by toybuilderlabs. I’ve read this before but did not really understood what he meant.
It means what he said: You don’t choose a 0.3 mm layer height but a 0.3175 mm layer height to get counter the repetend 3333333 (steps/mm vs. lead screw).
In the picture you can clearly see how the layer height affects the print !
0.3mm / 0.31mm / 0.3175mm