While printing @ 0.3mm most of the more for speed reasons I wanted to print some really fine detailed things. I’ve found that Elizabeth is just right for that purpose. Graceful and petite. Even more if scaled to mice-dimensions. So I brought her down the net and wiped away my curiosity. I scaled the thingiverse model down to 0.5 in slic3r and set the layer height to 0.1mm.
Printing time was about 3 hours and took circa 3.5m of filament. See end of post for slic3r settings.
Not quite perfect. No wait…Far from perfect ! But judge for yourself. Picture-galore after the break.
After long thinkering I decided to install one of those “improved” extruder mods for the TwoUp. Despite the overshadowing “Never Change A Running System” commandment haunting the gyri of my brain I did. Cause living on the edge ‘n stuff. You know.
Had printed DDeGonge888’s (no offense but what a ridiculus difficult nick to remember) extruder (version 7.0 as the time of writing – Download here ) and liard’s (much easier nick) extruder. Download here.
At first I wanted to install liard’s but came to the conclusion that is just too much of a fiddling and went with gonge’s extruder. Unfortunately. Because laird’s extruder had some nice fan pipes to direct the fan’s airflow directly to the hot-end.
On gonge’s extruder I had to sand off corners to make the two parts fit snug and maaaaayyybe took of a little too much. Anyways take a look.
DDeGonge888’s TwoUp Extruder with fan and fan duct
DDeGonge888’s TwoUp Extruder with fan and fan duct
Used rod connection from airplane model instead of printed spacer
Now the problem with the fan. Attaching it to the stepper is just uncool because everyone does and no…Actually it is too far away from the hot-end to cool the filament quick enough. So what to do ? I just turned the MDF spacer, which was not screwed at the top hole, down until it had the right angle for the fan duct (download) to direct airflow to the print. Looks unscripted but should get the job done.
Instead of the printed spacer for the spring I found that some old rod connectors for an airplane model had just about the right size to fit the spring and the M3 screw. The one I used is Graupner No. 1173.
So what changed now ? Did it improve ?
Well, I won an additional 1″ print area on the X-axis. Now I have a 16x16x11cm print area.
After installing the fan-mod I had to substract 5mm. Else the fan would run into the Z-axis rod. No big deal.
The cooling properties should have improved. I need to test this though.
Filament is much easier to change and feed into the extruder. Although you are not able to see inside the extruder which is kind of annoying but all in all it is quite okay.
A 3D printer is a cool tool. Some might say it’s a cool toy. Some might say it’s just a gadget. What most owners will say is that it is a machine that builds machines. Better machines with every iteration. ‘Iteration’ is a cool word though.
What most people don’t get is the capability of printing complex, fine mechanical or even impossible to make intricated structural elements. Things only skilled precision mechanics would be able to produce.
Takes this part of the Rostock Mini for example.
It has integrated hex nut slots.
Slots for linear bearings.
Flush-mounts for cylinder bolts.
Try this to build out of wood or plastic and you will soon hit the wall in your somewhat limited garage.
This is exactly the point where 3D printers jump in and save you a ton of work, giving you the ability to build stuff that allows you to go where no diy garage project has gone before.
But the question “What do you want to print with it” still arises as you admire the machine on your desk.
Builing a new 3D printer is why those (end-customer) machines were made.
2nd raison d’être is to rapid prototype (industry) though the big companies don’t fiddle around with FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling). They go for STL (Stereolithographie).
And then of course there is the need to build stuff that only existed in your imagination like a smart-watch. But not one of those tiny, shiny, cute electronic scrap watches. I am speaking of a BAD-ASS un-sublte smartwatch like Zack built one. Of course it has a laser. So all your question about the why are hereby swept-away. Check out his blog.
Zack Freedmans 3D-printed Big-Ass SmarTwatCh
Featured on Hackaday.com
After printing several parts okay I noticed that my whole prints were slightly tilted to the left on the X axis. This was very strange because I did not change anything and kept the rod lubricated all the time.
So I went through all the parts that affected the X axis.
Finally I noticed that there was a little abrasion on X axis belt’s side facing towards me. I think because I CA glued the belt to the extruder mount (stone me to death. I did deserve it !) not totally in line with the bearing assembly, the acrylic washers touch the belt.
Some time ago I detected this already and lubricated it but forgot about it.
There are two options to fix this.
After lubricating the acrylic washer in the bearing assembly the first half of the print went ok but the top half (as shown in the picture below) still kinda shift-warped left-right. So this is not a solution.
2) New extruder
By installing a new printed extruder I could get rid of the misaligned belt-holder-on-extruder and the bearing assembly.
3) Aligning belt to motor/bearing assembly
In the picture below you can see how the layers all shifted to the left. The black line devides the unlubricated print (bottom) from the lubricated print (top)
Layer shift on X axis